Suited and Booted

'Clothes make the man.  Naked people have little or no influence in society.'  ~Mark Twain, quoted in More Maxims of Mark compiled by Merle Johnson, 1927

This small collection shows the change in style of the military boot. In the early 1800's military uniforms were more concerned with the fashions of the times and the image of masculinity. However in modern day combat it seems that with the invention of automatic weapons and so on the main aim of the army uniform is practicality. This change in priorities is reflected in the design of the army boot, fashionable buckled shoes may have been worn in the mid 1800's which would've proved highly uncomfortable and impractical, lace up boots were then introduced which would be a design feature which would stick right up to the present day. The military boot design has seeped into the fashion sphere becoming a common style for both men and women. Similar styles were worn in the 1940's by both male and female civilians however this would have been for practical rather than aesthetic reasons. The design of the 19th Century uniforms would have been highly based upon the current fashions, now in the present day we see a need for function however this 'military look' is still desirable in the fashion world, so perhaps this need for a masculine appearance is still being achieved in the design of these uniforms. It is interesting to think about the importance of this uniform, everyone wearing the same coats and shoes even many military uniforms look the same with little distinction between them. It could be said that these uniforms give the men a sense of power or belonging. In chapter 1 of Henry David Thoreau's 'Walden' he writes; 'It is an interesting question how far men would retain their relative rank if they were divested of their clothes.' This notion that rank is determined by clothing is very evident in the military uniforms those of a higher rank wearing a higher quality of clothing and boots and those in the lower ranks wearing mass produced items. 

 1. Here you can see a pair of 19th century military boots. They would be buckled round the ankle and long and narrow in shape in keeping with the current male shoe trends. These boots wouldn't have been dissimilar to those worn by civilians at the time meaning that little attention will have been paid to function. However it was not essential for the wearer to be constantly mobile as the weapon of the period was the musket which was a highly inaccurate and short range weapon. So perhaps the appearance of masculinity was more important than camouflage as an intimidation tactic.  

2. This early 20th Century design is perhaps a more practical example. The calf length laced up boots would've protected the wearer from muddy conditions however would not have been completely waterproof. At this time weapons would have advanced meaning that staying hidden and being mobile was essential. This is reflected in the change in the colour of the uniforms and the more practical boot.

3. In an earlier design we can see a similar style. Although a practical boot we can see that this too reflects the current styles, small calves and built up thighs on the trouser leg. It seems though that this shoe style did indeed become one which stuck for a while. We can also see this style present in modern day fashions however mainly for ladies shoe designs. It is slightly odd that this style which was seen as the hight of masculinity is now only present in feminine styles.

4.This design by established shoe designers Bertie is highly reminiscent of these military boots calf length with laces and made from tough brown leather. Although in the past these styles would have been worn by men, today we see very few if any calf length boots for men on the high street. This is perhaps a reflection of the rapid change in what is regarded as masculine over the past 100 years.

5. The above is pair of Hobnailed boots dating back to World War 1. The design of these boots were due to problems faced with the existing army boot. The nails hammered into the sole would allow for grip on icy, soft or rocky ground. Steel inserts were often attached to the heel and toe of the boot meaning that the sole would not split as it had previously. These boots were highly practical employing different tanning of the leather to reduce rotting and thicker soles due to the nails all these thing meant that the boots would be both long lasting and helpful to the soldier, if not slightly heavy and slippery on smooth ground. This style of boot signified a clear aim, practicality and comfort.

6. This alternative style of boot worn in World War 1 would have tied tightly to the foot and allowed for a great deal of movement. However in damp conditions the leather which was tanned using a vegetable tanning technique, would have often become rotten and foul smelling. The soles would often crack letting water in and soldiers would often get trenchfoot due to these damp conditions. Similar styles of shoe are seen in men's high street designs and are seen as a practical winter option.

7. This image recently released of the British Army's new camouflage uniforms shows a very practical boot matching the uniform with deep treads for grip. This style of shoe has long been available on the high street for both men and women, often marketed as a walking boot. However similar styles are present in fashion shops.